Cruising anywhere in the world means freedom. On your own boat, you can find and get access to those less visited and more remote areas. The Anambas archipelago, in the South China Sea between Borneo and mainland Malaysia, is one of those places.

We came here in 2017 and were thrilled to be going back again on our eastbound trip towards Japan. How much would it have changed?

One of our all-time favourite anchorages to drop the hook is at Pedang Malang beach on Jemaja. It’s not necessarily the most remote island in the group (the airport is now finished since we were last there) but it’s still beautiful and bathes the visitor in a warm local welcome.

A two mile white beach stretches towards uninterrupted views of distant rain forests. Hills shimmer on the horizon. There are no hotels or resorts here.

We stayed for days, enjoying the snorkelling and taking the oldest scooters in the world through the island’s interior. Reluctantly we had to leave because we needed to check in at Tarempa, the capital of these islands.

We heaved the anchor fast in 6m of water on firm sand and waved goodbye. But Esper‘s engine temperature began to soar almost immediately. We turned it off and set the anchor again.

Now what? What would you do in this situation?